The long palm of the law

October 6th, 2008

One thing I’ve never really encountered here in Turkey is the recreational use of drugs (as long as you don’t count coffee, fags, booze and over-the-counter medicine which are all abused to the extreme). My only experience of drugs here in Turkey was a dicey drive in a taxi cab to the fields out the back of Ladies Beach to score some weed off two complete strangers. I was accompanying some English friends who fancied a smoke (I was only 14 and didn’t really know what was happening). We all survived and my friends paid over the odds for a bag of something with all the state changing properties of curly kale.

I was chatting to a Turkish girl about this the other day who found it shocking that I’d never come across more drug abuse here in Turkey. “It’s everywhere” she said. “Most of my friends take something or other”. Interesting. So why is everyone hiding it from me? “I’m always carrying Viagra” she stated matter of factly.

OK, I’m no doctor but I was a little confused as to what Viagra could possibly do for a woman. We then got to the truth of the matter and the real reason that some girls carry blueys…

It turns out that Turkish girls carry Viagra to bribe traffic police if they get caught over the alcohol limit. Everyone’s happy. She goes on her way a couple of pills lighter and the copper gets a stonker for 4 hours.

I tell you what, rooting around in this culture throws up more priceless goodies than the lucky dip at Ivanka Trump’s 18th birthday party.

Change of Plan

October 1st, 2008

So I’m sitting in the back of this taxi. The driver’s arm is in a cast from elbow to fingertips. Between changing gears with his opposite hand (leaving the steering to Allah) he’s also reaching across himself to shake his broken arm at other drivers. Under his breath, he’s muttering something angrily. I decided to try and directly translate his phrase into English…

“Amina koydugumun pezevengi”. Let’s break it down.

“am” = “cunt”
“koy” = “put”
“pezevenk” = “pimp”

“Amina”. From what I understand, the suffix here creates “to their cunt”.
“Koydugumun”. This I know. This is the simple past tense form of the verb “put” with a possesive chaser. Thus making “I put”.
“Pezevengi”. The change in the final letters connects the word to the previous words in the sentence.

Right. So the taxi driver’s saying “the pimp whose cunt I put it in”. An interesting choice.

I particularly like the use of ‘put’ here. It’s not ’shoved’ or ‘thrusted’, it’s ‘put’ as in “go and put it over there” or “I’ve just put some mail in your cubbyhole”.

He didn’t stray from this phrase though. Everyone was tarred with the same pimp brush. He started to complain to me about the state of the country but I was miles away (deliberately. Had I been ‘in the moment’ I would have been out of that cab).

I sat there thinking about what the hell had just happened in my life. What had I just agreed to?

I know I owe you all an apology. Everyday I’m getting emails asking me what the hell is going on and why I’ve suddenly taken a break from this series of lessons in the way of the fez. Don’t worry, as you can see, I’m still alive.

I got back to Turkey in early September and started pottering around my flat. As I sat there trying to think of a witty status update for FaceBook, I realised that it was probably time to do something with my life. Not that writing pages of information on the techniques of a Hamam Masseur isn’t doing something with my life, but it’s not going to get the baby a new bonnet (as mum would say …and no, I haven’t become a dad).

I know I promised a full update on the America Tour, it’s coming I promise (again). The truth is, in the past month, a bomb went off in my life. I realised that another winter in Kusadasi wasn’t going to be the most productive thing I could do. The sensible option would be to move to Izmir (the nearest big city). Where Kusadasi empties in the winter, Izmir fills as the holiday makers return to their day jobs. This was going to be the place for me.

I considered my options. What could I do? How could I afford the rent? Could I survive in Izmir? I remembered the CELTA (Certificate in English Language Teaching to Adults) I’d completed at the beginning of the year and wondered if I could finally use this to get some private students. So I called the British Council in Izmir with no real idea what I was going to ask them.

Before I knew it, they’d suggest a vacancy at a very well respected private boarding school. To cut a long story short, an hour later I’d typed my CV, the next morning I had an interview and I started my new job the following day.

I really do believe that sometimes the Universe is looking out for you. When you really have no direction, it’ll come and slap you round the face with something that answers all of your problems.

So here’s the deal… the school provides me with a house (massive), all my meals, washing and ironing, they are even sorting out my work and residence visas. All I have to provide is my ability to speak English and to stop 9 year olds stabbing each other with retractable pencils for 40 minutes.

I’m in heaven. The motivation and drive I have now is something I thought I’d lost forever after my dog biscuit patent went belly up a few years back. I wake before my alarm at 7am. I’m showered and shaved by 7:30am. Out the door by 8am and drinking tea in the staffroom by 8.01am.

Don’t worry, I will continue the blog and I still have and endless list of things to explain/understand about the Turkish culture. However, I wont be focussing on my new job as the school is respectable and my writing clearly isn’t.

As I’m still settling into my new flat, job, life, suit, shoes, role etc, please excuse any delays between posts. I will try to use my spare time effectively to see what different elements of Turkish culture the big city throws up.

Thank you all for your patience. I kiss you.

Do yourself a favour …and me brother

August 22nd, 2008

My brother is currently doing rather well in the charts. With your help we can shift him from number 2 to number 1! If you pop along to BeatPort.com, you can find his latest release in their top downloads list. It’s called ‘Juss a Beat EP’ or ‘Praise the JBs EP’ and his name is ATFC. Please buy the EP (it costs less than a fiver) and let’s try and get him to top the charts. I love you all.

Almost there…

August 22nd, 2008

You missed me? OK, don’t be nasty.

I’m here in sunny Surbiton, stuffing the remain Primark bargains (yeah well no-one’s heard of Primark in Turkey so you can tell them it’s like Armani, Primarni if you will) into my already swollen suitcase. On Monday I head back to Turkey and settle in for the winter.

My god, it’s been an amazing few weeks. America was something to behold. I know I didn’t update but after driving a few hundred miles every day, the last thing you want to do is crank open the laptop. I promise to write up the whole trip and there are some special moments to share. Although not completely ArseAboutFez related, it’ll be worth a read (photographic taster below).


So please sit tight as I say my farewells and board the BA to Izmir. I’m coming home people…

Farceport

July 26th, 2008

I spent the evening of the 20th trying to make good the custom of saying my goodbyes to relatives. Luckily my friend Serhan was around with his car to help me fulfill my duties. I knew 5 weeks was a long time to be away, especially during the height of the summer season.

Arriving at my uncle’s hotel, I had barely enough time to neck a whisky and a couple of beers before I made my way down to meet the First Choice coach running a Bodrum transfer that I’d managed to secure a place on.

Bodrum airport is actually closer to the town of Milas and has only recently started accepting international flights. First Choice, it seems, has pretty much got the monopoly.

I often hear Turks complain about the quality of the tourists coming from England. Everyone remembers a time when Turkey was an ‘exotic’ location, somewhere off the beaten track. As I tried to kill the hours in the airport, I could see what the Turks were moaning about. For that night as I searched for a place to sit amongst the masses jetting back home to Doncaster, Manchester, Newcastle and Gatwick, I realised that the departure lounge had all the class of Jeremy Kyle’s Green Room.

Nevertheless, 4 hours later I had touched down and was soon in the arms of mum. I’d missed her loads over the months and it was lovely to see her again.

After a brief kip, it was time to crack on with the main reason for my early arrival in the UK… renew my passport. I had already filled out the forms online and had them sent to mum in preparation for my arrival.

Apparently now you have to call to make an appointment. Gone are the days of turning up at the Passport Office and waiting. Unfortunately, there was a slight problem…

Due to a strike, the only appointment they had was in Newport, Wales which would mean leaving immediately. After some calls, it was apparent that I didn’t need a 6 month expiration buffer on my passport and therefore didn’t need to renew it to be accepted into the USA. Bargain.

But I will take a moment here to rant about Civilisation.

Q: Can I travel on my passport? A:

[1] Home Office: No
[2] Passport Office: Don’t Know
[3] US Embassy: Probably
[4] Trailfinders: Yes

Note: 1-3 palmed me off to their websites. Why? I was on the phone to them at the time. Anyway, then I got straight onto the other pressing matters at hand. Firstly:

Oh fish and chips. I missed you so.

Next came prawn korma swiftly followed by a Chinese I couldn’t even carry. I was recharged with missed tastes.

Over the next few days I caught up with friends, helped mama around the house and slowly got myself prepared for a trip I’ve dreamed of all my adult life…

Caption Competition #3

July 20th, 2008

Sitting having a drink in a cafe the other day, I noticed this strange cartoon character on the side of my Coke can. I couldn’t find the character’s name but it appears to be some kind of penguin. Perhaps you can come up with a name for him. I came up with a few as the bubbles poured out my nose…

Iyi yolculuklar

July 20th, 2008

Today’s post is a bit of a hotch potch of things, which kind of represents my mind at the moment anyway. I’m a little stressed and disorganised. It’s nothing new to me and I’ve come to accept this side of my personality.

Tonight at 11:30pm, I join a group of tourists on a transfer bus to Bodrum’s Milas airport. From there I head to the UK to sort out a few things (renewing my passport, applying for Turkish residence etc). A week later I board a plane to New York with my greatest mate Pete. After a day of shopping, we pick up a hire car and head West towards Chicago.

My other greatest mate Sam will be meeting us there to join us as we head further West to Denver where Sam will leave us and head back to London.

From Denver we’ll continue our journey all the way through to Las Vegas. After a couple of days of throwing huge amounts of money at the roulette wheels and open buffets, we’ll catch our flight back to Blighty.

Once back in the UK, I’ll spend another week celebrating mum’s birthday before returning to Turkey on the 25th August.

Well, this is the plan. Everything’s booked. All that’s left is to pack my bags and say my farewells.

I feel strangely nervous about the journey. I’m excited too, don’t get me wrong. But I just feel that I’ve overlooked something crucial. Perhaps it’s that ‘did I leave the iron on’ paranoia that age brings. I’m sure it’ll be just fine once I board the plane.

The fact that I’m almost completely deaf isn’t helping the situation. Why, you might ask? I was at a concert last night here in Kusadasi. One of Turkey’s best loved pop stars was in town and my step brother had a VIP ticket going spare.

You may know this pop star from his attempt to ’shake it up sekerim’ at the 2007 Eurovision Song Contest. I believe he came 3rd, which would be a nail in his coffin in the UK, but here he’s something of a superstar.

A fantastic gig. He’s a handsome beggar with a great stage presence.

So, anyway, I’m going to leave you now to pack my bags. I will be documenting my journey across the US so the title of this blog may seem irrelevant for a while. Hopefully you’ll enjoy the break from all things Turkish or perhaps I’ll just use the opportunity to draw comparisons from that culture. Nothing is certain yet.

Watch this space…

Fezsaurus #6

July 13th, 2008

At yarağına kelebek konmuş - A butterfly that’s landed on a horse’s cock

I was in the barber’s the other day. Since I told him I’m writing this blog, he’s always got a new pearl of wisdom for me whenever I pay him a visit. As I was enjoying my massage by a 9 year old boy called Ahmet (a sentence that would have me wearing an electronic tagging device before you could say ‘name and shame’ back in Blighty), Ozkan (the owner) shouted excitedly “have you heard this one? have you heard this one?”. He then launched the above phrase.

I was a little embarrassed to ask the meaning of this particular gem as the shop was full of children and not wanting to corrupt their innocent minds, I simply shrugged my shoulders. He left the half-shaved face of his customer and brushed Ahmet aside.

“Look at this air conditioner” he said pointing at the wall “see how I’ve jammed newspaper in it to stop it moving about?”. I hadn’t noticed, but he was right. “Now it’s like a butterfly that’s landed on a horse’s cock”.

“I understand”, I lied.

“Can the horse fuck the butterfly?” he asked.

“Erm, not really”

“But the butterfly can fuck the horse!”. With that he tapped me on the shoulder and with a knowing wink, he resumed his business.

So there you have it (or like me, you don’t), anything that’s been bodged is like a butterfly sitting on a horses cock. If anyone can help me out with understanding this one, please do.

Breeze Block

July 12th, 2008

As I’ve mentioned many times in this blog, the Turks are a brave nation. They single-handedly freed their own land from a multitude of occupiers and are perpetually ready to do it again. Any trip on the nations roads will tell you that these people have no fear. A man will slice his own arm off, rub a bit of lemon cologne on it, light up a cigarette and calmly say “tsk, it’s nothing”.

But I’ve discovered a weakness; a chink in their armour if you will. Something that sends a shiver down the spine of any God fearing Turk. Something so feared, they’ll always make sure they are carrying something to protect themselves (and others) from it. So what is this foe? What is the Turkish Kryponite? For a Turk, there is nothing as horrifying as a mild breeze.

The fear of catching a cold is absolute and even in the height of the hottest summer, a Turk will always make sure their lower back and neck are protected from any kind of cool air.

Actually it’s the cold in any form. Cold water, cold floors, cold breeze, cold sea… they are all potential menaces.

Whenever I talk to my nan about my mum and days gone by, the one thing that sticks in her mind is how “she always walked around barefoot and never covered her childrens‘ feet”. The fact that the ambient temperature was 50 degrees matters not. The shortest route the devil can take to whisk away your soul is through your feet via cold tiles or cold water hitting your stomach.

Through the years, I’ve been ill many times in Turkey. Everything from throat abscesses to dysentery and every time I come down with something, the response is always the same: “you must have got cold”. It’s certainly a possibility but having lived 31 years on a small island in the North Sea, I’d probably say my body is pretty resilient to all things ‘chilly’.

Taking a wild guess, I’d wager it was swimming around a couple of metres above a cracked sewage pipe that blessed me with Amoebic Dysentery (being, as it is, an ‘anal>oral desease). I’d go further to say that eating meat from a sheep’s carcass that’d been swinging in the midday sun for god knows how long led to the numerous times I’ve been scared to sneeze for fear of ruining my shorts. But, no, it must be the fact that I wasn’t wearing slippers.

This isn’t just a wives tale. I hear doctors make this diagnosis. I wonder, though, is there any truth in it? Could it be that we’re wrong and they’re right? Just what damage can the cold really do?

“The results are back and I’m afraid you have a rather aggressive form of Gonorrhea. Now, I want you to think back. Have you drunk any cold water recently?”

When offering water to someone, you always have to ask “would you like cold, room temperature or a mixture?”. Everyone has their own way of taking water and it’s always best to ask.

Children never drink cold water (though, bizarrely, ice-cream is all good). Children a wrapped up like Inuits as soon as their arse leaves the sea. Childrens‘ feet are constantly monitored for any indication of dropping below ‘warm’.

Here’s an experiment you can try at home. Below is a picture of me with my gorgeous niece Lily. Show this picture to a Brit then show it to a Turk and notice the difference in the response:

You probably got responses similar to…

British response: “My God, she’s gorgeous. Look at that fat belly! And those feet! I could eat her up”.

Turkish response: “My God, her belly’s not covered! …and her feet! Poor thing. Oh my God!” followed by a stream of prayers along the lines of “God protect her”, clutching their ear lobes and knocking on the table (it’s the “God protect you” gesture).

When I was a baby, we lived in Turkey for a year. In Antalya, arguably one the hottest areas of the country. I was just months old and mum would lie me in my cot and point a fan at me to stop me from cooking in my own sweat. On seeing this, my grandmother would begin to pray for God to intervene and cut the electricity to block. It just ain’t done I tell you.

When my Turkish family used to visit us in the UK, no matter what season they arrived, they’d be wrapped up in scarves, gloves and full length fur coats. “It’s like ice, I tell you. Ice!”.

I mentioned the throat abscess I had once. My neighbour came in to see how I was doing (I was fine. I just had a sore throat). What happened next, will haunt me till the day I die (probably of a cold neck). She rubbed my entire body in Deep Heat, wrapped me in blankets and closed all windows and doors to keep the warmth in. This was one of the hottest Summers on record, by the way. Ever cooked Salmon en Papillote? You see where I’m going with this.

The other night I was having dinner at my cousin’s house. As I sat there on the balcony, I looked out to all the other families doing exactly the same. It’s a lovely sight to see people enjoying the evening with their loved ones, chatting, debating, laughing and tucking into the delights of the Turkish kitchen. But if you look closely, you’ll notice that theirs a constant ballet of people switching seats to avoid the evening breeze.

Throughout the summer, you’ll hear Turks complaining of sore throats (”I must have got cold”), or lower back pain (”I must have got cold”), headaches (”I must have got cold”) and a whole host of other cold-related ailments.

I know that now having written this post, I’m opening myself up to the most severe bout of the flu but I simply had to share this rather curious difference in our cultures. Excuse me now while I take a cold shower and sit on the balcony to dry off with a nice cold glass of water. May God protect me.

Village of the Damned

July 7th, 2008

The Brits are here! The Ocean Village cruise ship pulled into port to bring a touch of class to our small town.

The class manifested itself with everyone on the top deck clapping and singing along to classics such as ‘Alice (who the fuck is Alice)’, ‘Is this the way to Amarillo?’ and ‘Hey baby (ooh ah)’. Individually, any of these songs instill in me fantasies of an indiscriminate massacre. But the combination of all three plus the discordant wailings of football shirt clad masses had me turning myself into the police before anyone could get hurt.

I fear that 2 years in a tourist resort has fueled my snobbish distaste for the stereotypical “these aren’t like the beans we get at home” English tourist. But, after observing this faux-posh cruise in full swing, I can conclusively say that this is a cruise for people who most certainly do do cruises.